30/01/2012 3 Comments
Before I did my balance adjustment I had a choice to make.
Which skirt draft to use as a base for my adjustment? Is there really a difference between the drafts? And if there is, how significant is it?
What a perfect time to do a quick comparison between Muller and Aldrich skirt block draft.
For this experiment I used size 14 standard measurements ( from “Metric pattern cutting” ).
Both blocks are quite similar, but the there are some differences none the less.
I have discovered that Aldrich skirt block is better suited for a rounder bum.
Well, see it for yourself.
The results of the experiment
First of all Aldrich skirt has more ease. It is 1.6 cm wider around hips.
Second, the side seams are moved towards the front. Some pattern drafting books insist you move the seams towards the front in every draft, but more often you have to do it if the back side needs extra width.
The Aldrich skirt’s front is 0.7 cm narrower than Muller and back side is 1.3 cm wider.
Aldrich skirt has two back darts instead of Muller’s one. Two darts will give a smoother curve over the bottom.
Aldrich skirt has 13 cm total waist suppression and Muller has 12 cm.
I guess in Muller’s days women preferred more structured, tailored, close-fitting clothes!
Before you ask, I went with Muller’s draft this time.